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S15 Handling mods

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Hey guys,

 

Trying to set my car up for grip and considering where to put my moneys.

Need advice.

 

Currently have:

Coilovers

Fat tyres

 

I'm thinking of putting my money into some Cusco/Hard-race/Whiteline sway bars but I hear very conflicting views, people saying they're a good bang for buck and others saying the stock ones are good enough.

 

or should I

 

Invest in front and rear suspension, i.e;

Caster arms, Lower control arms, Toe arms, Camber arms and traction arms although I wouldn't be sure how to set them up.

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fat tyres mean stuff all if they are crap. same for coilovers. assuming they are OK and it's for street grip. go sway bars only. if you drop it go rear camber arms too. if you take to track get rear toe and front castor arms. whiteline and hard race are fine. plenty of threads already on setup.

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fat tyres mean stuff all if they are crap. same for coilovers. assuming they are OK and it's for street grip. go sway bars only. if you drop it go rear camber arms too. if you take to track get rear toe and front castor arms. whiteline and hard race are fine. plenty of threads already on setup.

 

From the top of my head i'm running 245/40/18 on the front, 255/35/18 on the back Nitto Invo tyres

& MCA blues

 

Appreciate the post mate, helps a lot

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you'll notice a big difference with a whiteline adjustable front sway bar on hard. don't worry about rear. enjoy!

Edited by The Big Fist
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MCAs advice on sway bars is to leave them factory front and rear with blues.

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If you do go the whiteline kit, get the newer model sway bar links and swaybar lock brackets.

 

The links that come with the kit are flimsy and I found my rear sway kept wanting to foul on the exhaust until I used the little locks bracket things.

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Don't slam car, if you do at least get rear traction rods and lengthen them, good starting point is 10mm as per DriftWorks.. Nissan suffers from massive camber/toe ramp once the rear geometry is messed with.. if you need it low, I suggest getting drop spindles for the rear.

 

The fronts benefit heavily from increasing castor, even moving the castor pick up point makes a huge difference when lowered.. many just drill the top part of the castor mounting point so when the car is lowered the castor rods are still in the stock location (ish).

Edited by Dose Pipe Sutututu

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MCAs advice on sway bars is to leave them factory front and rear with blues.

 

For basic setup yes... however adjusting the roll you can maximize your handling or change the feedback of the car.

 

I find stiffening up the rear makes the car more lively to drive if you're running softer springs

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Not sure if it was mentioned before but have you tested the car in it's current state? if so maybe provide some details on how it currently handles and how you would like it to change. An example would be had good turn in at corner entry but uneasy transition at apex, oversteer at corner exit or the car is twitchy with heavy under steer under acceleration etc.

 

just saying you could spend alot and change heaps of parts when you may not need to.

 

Also out of curiosity is this grip racing circuit based/time attack/autocross or a mix of all

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i would replace all bushes with polyurethane ones. 15 year old rubber bushes that have done 150,000 kms should be pretty flogged out.

 

strut brace is a cheap way to help tighten the front end, also from what i have read only, the nismo power brace helps stiffen rigidity better than strut brace.

 

id start there, thats probably the cheaper options and your bushes will be new, one less thing to have f**k with your feedback.

 

a good wheel alignment will also do wonders to how the car performs. see how that goes, and then you have a benchmark with and without swaybars before you upgrade them

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Radio consists of radio waves, electromagnetic waves and many other types of waves that can transfer the data. In this channel online dissertation service displays the frequency and speed of the waves.

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Hmn i'll consider coilovers for my next buy, maybe even kw if i get a raise :D

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