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Found 29 results

  1. I got a stock ca18det smic, but i have no clue how to mount it to the side, i believe im missing brackets, i dont know the orientations, if anyone has any photos of how its mounted that would be much appreciated!!
  2. CA18DET Wastegate Actuator

    CA18DET standard wastegate in working order.
  3. Wanted CA18DET

    Chasing a CA18det motor, manual gear box, wiring loom and ecu. For swap into a datsun 1200 ute! Located in Melbourne, have cash waiting. Cheers
  4. 1989 Nissan 180sx

    Would really love to swap this for a non turbo s chassis (s13, 180sx, s14, s15), but if I get no offers for swaps I will sell it. Some details about the car include: - CA18DET - Manual - 200,000km - Unregistered. Has a permit until 26/05/17 - KKR 330 turbo - ARC side mount intercooler - Digital HUD with original windscreen - S15 5 stud conversion (arms, hubs, calipers, slotted rotors) - Mongoose M80 alarm system - Electronic boost controller - ULTM Turbo timer - Matrix boost gauge - Fair few bushes have been changed throughout the car with polyurethane replacements, including castor bushes, front LCA bushes, and rear subframe bushes and probably more that I'm missing. - Front end and boot has all been resprayed with anti-rust. Recently comp tested the engine and it produced healthy numbers of 150, 145, 147 and 150. If you have any questions please message me on 0423113432
  5. Hi, I'm looking for a few parts to finish off a CA18 install. 1. Bell housing bolts to bolt the gearbox to the motor. (Does not need to be a complete set. Ill take whatever you have and buy the missing ones new) 2. Silvia radiator fan shroud 3. Any CA18DET factory turbo/intercooler pipework and 4. Factory CA18DET airbox Located in Brisbane but I am happy to pay for postage if nothing turns up locally. Thanks Darren
  6. WTB S13 Silvia

    WTB Nissan Silvia S13 MUST BE -Factory CA18DET -Factory Manual (will consider an auto if it is an 89 model) -Factory Black, Or any of the two tones -Factory Sunroof -Not a single dent, crack, bend or bit of rust on the chassis. Extra credits -HUD and digital Dash -The more stock the better -Maybe a shell -Any of the rare s13 factory parts (cooler box, aero kit ect.) in VICTORIA. Let me know whats out there.
  7. I have a 1989 Nissan silvia with the ca18det. Seems to be running on three cylinders(cold or hot) Cylinder two isn't firing for some reason. Things I've checked or done: - compression on cylinder two is 120psi - seafoam in the gas tank to try and clean injectors. - injector cleaner in fuel tank as well - added a ground to my alternator. - checked timing and everything is ok. Same a CAS - unplugged ecu and plugged it back in. (Has aftermarket ecu with the usb cord instead of the test lights for checking codes. But plugged into my computer and it didn't do anything.) - it has 660cc injectors not sure how old. - aftermarket disco potato turbo. - tried different coils and plugs. Have spark. Sure there's more but let know what you guys think. Thanks
  8. Hi guys, I am in the process of collecting parts to swap my dying automatic CA18det sileighty to manual. As I am poor, and with my rego coming up I can't afford too much money, but I am wondering is it at all possible to instead of forking out $60-80 on ARP specialized flywheel bolts, to instead use high tensile bolts that can be tightened to 100nm as that's the torque setting I've read to use on the ca flywheel. Has anyone else cheaped out and just used high tensile bolts? any experiences would be appreciated. cheers for any help guys.
  9. CA18det turbo package

    Hi everyone, I have up for sale a T25g turbo kit that I was running on my ca18det. It includes both stainless low mount and stock manifolds, braided coolant and oil lines (has one standard coolant line), stainless split dump, new turbo rebuild kit and a t25g turbo off an SR20. No longer needed as I have put on a bigger turbo. Chasing $250 for the lot. Pick-up Brisbane northside.
  10. Edited by Mod: Since this is your first day on this forum as well as your first post, please familarise yourself with the sticky threads (i.e. rules) in the Parts for Sale section. When you've covered it off, maybe then create another thread and include your prices.
  11. Hey guys, I'm really in need of a CA18DET manual box with shifter and bellhousing, will consider an engine, box ecu, loom package, will have cash on monday afternoon and I can pick up monday from goldcoast or brisbane!!! cmon guys really need one, thanks
  12. 180sx garage clean out

    Selling 180sx light cases etc, front bar, whiteline camber kit(new), momo kick plates(new), ca18det intercooler, blitz blow off valve. Asking about $20 each per item and $50 for the front bar. Or less, make me an offer. Just want to clear garage out more than anything! Moving house next week. Ph 0421 870 836. Best to text if no answer.
  13. 180sx factory front bar for sale with factory Nissan badge. Also have original intercooler and blitz blow off valve. Sold my 180 many years ago and have had parts in garage for many years. Parts taken from ca18det car. $200 ONO. Must sell. Call or text 0421 870 836. Melbourne only, buyer to collect or can deliver in bayside area.
  14. Hi All, I recently built a solid little ca18det all forged, mild cam, little head work and the rest. I intended on putting it into my mk2 escort but realised at best it's a year off being ready. So I recently got a very stock 91 silvia with an auto ca18det to transfer my engine into. And I know very little about the cars & am hoping you silvia nuts can clear some questions up for me. What I'm not sure on is.. Are the turbo automatics different to the n/a ones, stall converter and toughness wise? Would my diff be an lsd? Also I'm taking it to willowbank next weekend to practice the staging and launch in this car while its stock. Does any one have any idea what sort of embarrassing times I'll be running with a stocker. Cheers.
  15. HDI FMIC for CA18DET

    I've been looking for an intercooler kit for my ca18det s13 and finally managed to find this HDI kit. Anyone on here using them or any reviews? I've used hybrid intercoolers before and they were good. Not much concern about the core. My only concern with this kit is the use of a silicone 90 deg elbow connector from the core to the piping. Any risk of these collapsing under pressure? Or even the feasibility of using them there? Experts here willing to share their thoughts? Thanks.
  16. Hey guys I want to increase the power of my ca18de in my s13, I know I can put a turbo on but can't because of p plates and when I'm off my p plates ill have a sr20det to go in. Does anyone have a list of upgrades to get more power and ideas for better cooling and so on. Thanks
  17. Hey all, I have decided to convert my ca18de s13 into a sr20det. How I'm hunting down a ecu wiring loom and bits and pieces but what I really want to know is do I need to get a sr gearbox or will my ca box fit on to the sr? Also will I need to replace the engine cross member with one from a sr20 s13 or just replace the engine mounts?
  18. Hi everyone Im kinda new to the forum and this is my first post... but i really need some help and advice. I have a s13 Silvia with a ca18det and recently had the radiator unblocked (remove and refit). The car was running fine after that until a couple days ago when i noticed the temp rising a bit then dropping when i got more air into the engine, but now it is staying in the very high areas along with my second temp gauge which says its around 100-110C . P.s i do have a slightly dodgy speedo, it climbs to 70 when i'm barely moving and get stuck there and while stationary it sits on 20-40kph. So it could be a dodgy reading on the gauges. If any one has any idea's on what else it could be that is causing this problem, let me know please. Oh and feel free to add me Thanks, Kugan
  19. Hey guys. I'm wiring up a few gauges onto my s13 ca18de, At the moment it's just water temp and oil pressure, I was wondering if I can just splice them into the original senders on the motor? Not to worried about looks cause in a year a new motor will be going in and gauges will to installed properly. Does anyone know where the coolant temp sender is and which wires to splice into and also with the oil pressure sender? Cheers mark
  20. Hey everyone. I currently have a s13 with a ca18de and am buying a ca18det to rebuild and put it into my s13 when I'm on my opens. Now I want to know some tips on storing the motor since it will be a year untill it goes into my car. Are there tips to help it from getting rusty or seising up and what ever else there is to know about rebuilding and storing a engine. Thanks in advance to help. Mark
  21. Okay, i'm only 15 and im getting my Ls in a few months, i was thinking of buying a car, either s13 sr20det, or 180sx also turbo, i was thinking of getting it registered in one of my family members name, either sister or dad, and then i can just drive that on my Ls, and then when i get on my Ps, register it on my name and buy a different engine, and putting a non turbo sr20de, or ca18de, i am no mechanic or anything, but my dad was in the automotive area abit, and he does know a few things about cars, so i wouldnt be mind lost. but would this be a good idea? any help? please!
  22. Hello, as you can see from the title I have a CA18DET that has power loss. I was browsing this forum but I couldn't find anything similar to my problem. Anyway, I'm gonna try to explain it as clearly as I can. Also, I want to say that I'm not a mechanic, my knowledge with cars is really little. And sorry for my bad english, it isn't my first language. So, everything started when I was cleaning my engine (oil) from slug. I removed valve caps, CAS, camshafts, timing belt, hydraulic compensators (I've rebuild them). After putting everything together I also changed oil, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned my injectors. When we started the car it worked fine, but after putting gas pedal to the floor the car would start to "cough"/shoot from exhaust and wouldn't go past 3k RPMs. Anyway, I didn't knew what to do so I gave it to a guy that works with 200sx for many years. He re-put my timing belt and set the timing. It helped for a few days. But after a few days I got a straight 3" exhaust with turbo elbow. The guys that installed it said that it's from SR20DET and that turbo elbow is now screwed to my turbo with 4 out of 5 screws. Anyway when I got my exhaust installed the problem started again. Car started caughing and wouldn't go past 3k RPMs when floored. I took my car to the same guy and he found out that my fuel pump is dead. He changed it to other one (used) and it was ok for a while. So now I have a different problem. When I am pushing gas soft the car runs fine, but if I floor it, I hear the turbo spool (~3k RPM), I can feel the acceleration till about 4k RPMs, then I feel a slight pause (it stops for like 1sec @ 4k RPMs) and then it goes further but reaaaaally slowly. And I feel like the boost turns on-off-on-off. It's really strange and hard to explain. Sometimes I feel like I don't have any boost. What should I check? Should I look at turbo's actuator? As I was googling I've read that it can be: 1) Boost leak 2) Spark plugs 3) Vacuum leak 4) IC piping leak 5) Exhaust leak 6) O2/lambda sensor 7) Coilpacks I tried to disconnect my O2 sensor, but nothing changed. I took NGK spark plugs (I will be able to tell the exact model tomorrow) from my friends dead SR20DET motor, gonna try to put them in, also check the coilpacks. Maybe you guys have any schemes or pictures that could show me where to look for boost/vaccum/ic piping leaks? I would be really grateful for that. Oh and by the way, my S13 is fully stock except for exhaust and stage 1 ECU chip. Thanks in advance, Kash.
  23. Hi Guys I am new to the forum, but in desperate need of advise in relation to my CA18DET 510. I installed the CA18DET in to the 510 in about 1990, well before fitting kits were available, so all the fabrication was done by hand and by trial and error. It is fitted with two Haltech computers, one for the fuel, and one for the ignition (thats how it was back then!), and is in stock form except for a couple of more pounds of boost (via an adjustable length actuator, also home made), and twin external motorbike MSD coils, as the Haltech was not able to be connected to the factory coils at the time. The motor and EFI has not been touched in 23 years, and has been extremely reliable. Unfortunately as the car is not run on a regular basis, it has recently developed severe corrosion of the water pipes, including the steel one that is pressed in to the inlet manifold. It appears that I am going to have to replace the existing manifold, but as this is the early two port head, with the FWD style inlet manifold (and non intercooled as per the factory, with the VL style crossover pipe), do I bite the bullet and change the head to the later single port version, and corresponding front entry inlet manifold, as this will also make it easier to intercool. I have a replacement 2 port manifold already, and also a single port head with the new style manifold. My questions are, - is it worth just replacing the existing inlet manifold with the same style, and if so is it possible to change the top half of the manifold only without removing the bottom part of the manifold from the head? - is there any horsepower advantages in switching to the single port head and the new style inlet manifold, and will this bolt straight up to the existing early block, and the same with the existing exhaust manifold/turbo and maintain the exhaust in the same postion? - are the injectors (including impedence) and connectors the same as the early style ones, and the other head connections? - can I still run it non intercooled short term? (it has been OK for 23 years) - is the Haltech tune going to need to be changed? - is the factory style head gasket OK for low boost application? - do I need any special tools (eg special head stud socket) - is this a common transplant, and does anyone have any other thoughts on the potential swap. I am not chasing BIG Kw, just a reliable street cruiser Thanks in advance for any advice you guys are able to provide Aardvark1600
  24. Just another JDM s13

    Model: 1988 S13 Nissan Silvia Engine: CA18DET 1.8L Turbo (manual) Color: Dark Blue.. possibly midnight blue i really cant tell Mods: flashy piping, gauges and pretty blue hoses.. Few piccies of it.. let me know if they are too big and ill resize em Full recap of the 7 months iv owned it.. Swapped out the old battery for a bigger one youd usually find in a commodore/ falcon the tiny one didnt seem to have enough go in it to start the car Got it to start.. Wouldnt take ANY water just spit it out the exhaust.. We all know what that means im sure Replaced the water pump with a new one, Got a new thermostat Looks much better in my opinion.. Not that it matters you never see it anyway lol.. Previous owners work attempting to do what im not so sure.. Fairly sure this is an intercooler from a S15.. Guessing by the pipe layout and the butchered hole Getting ready to rip the head off and get it machined i saw this The head out of the car Something doesnt seem right about the dump pipe.. i may be wrong but it screams something was f**ked The bores after i cleaned like 2cm of water off the top of the pistons After all that i moved everything to my gfs house cause i needed (or rather wanted) a shed to work in.. New Taillights and drivers seat My attempt at fixing the cigarette lighters position Next level pro DIY job right? My attempt at repairing the headunit faschia Last couple of weeks a mate and i have been peicing it back together.. i forgot where a majority of the vac lines are supposed to go but after a bit of googling and what not i figured out i can both use the diagram i found on here and my old photos of the engine bay to put it back together properly but now the last couple of days iv had it running abit and im happy with it apart from the oil leak from the front and the smoke from a fueling issue out the back.. heres a couple of vids for ya to enjoy.. Looking forward to some feedback https://www.youtube....h?v=nCMxu5kxAAY
  25. Hi there NS. i need some help. At Maturi in November i did a bottom end in my ca18det when the oil return from the turbo came off and starved the motor of oil. I bought a replacement ca18 from a wrecker in Sydney. It had a dented sump so i had to swap the one from my old motor. now the motor is in, it started fin 1st go. i took it for a spin around the block. it ran like a dream. probably did a bout 10kms of driving in it. wasn't boosting properly, but i think my EVC just needed to be reconfigured. i decided to do a compression test on the motor, as it's used from a wrecker with limited warranty. First cylinder got 150psi. Moved the compression tester to cyl 2 and to motor wouldn't crank over any more... i assumed starter motor had bit the dust. I replaced the starter motor, Still wont crank over. So i decided to try to turn the motor over by hand and it's stuck!! it will rotate backwards a bit and get stuck again, then i can rotate it forward a bit and i gets stuck in the same spot. i took the cam covers off and rotated the motor the little bit that i can and it all looks fine in there. so i'm a bit lost as to how this could happen during a compression test. For the motor to be binding up i can only thing of a few things it could be. 1. there is something in the sump left over from my blown bottom end. i fell this is unlikely as i cleaned it out knowing full well i couldn't leave any shrapnel in there. 2. there is something making the flywheel get stuck. 3. the valves are bent, or the timing is so far out the valves are hitting a piston. (this seems unlikely since the car ran well before the compression test. timing belt looks new and has proper tension on it.) My biggest problem is not having a place to work on the car at home, otherwise i'd have the motor out and the sump off looking for clues. Does anyone have any ideas before i start pulling everything to pieces? or trying to chase some sort of warranty. thanks, Mike
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