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About suspct

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    Standard Member
  • Birthday 01/03/1980

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  • Location
    Australia QLD
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  1. Suspension Mods

    For the $70 they cost, I doubt its worth it. Where can ya get Pinnaples for $70??!! someone PM me! hehe
  2. Air Flow meter upgrade

    Well originally i bought a Q45 AFM for use with my S14 sr though after a bit more research i hear it is harder to get it to idle right. If used with a HKS idle stablizer it would be fine im sure... Z32 is far more straight forward
  3. S14 - bump steer issues

    Its only 110mm at the lowest point and didnt have any bump steer prior to the lower arms and nismo brace fitment... really strange
  4. New fuel pump wiring

    Diagram looks good, I would go a 20A fuse, and make sure of all the connections espessially the GROUNDS make sure you see metal!!
  5. Just had the wheel align done after fitting the all the new bits (Nismo Power Brace, front lower adjustable control arms and rear lower adjustable control arms {rear camber and toe arms already fitted}). Well I still have the factory tension rods (caster rods) in the front as i was hoping the keep it a little more forgiving on bumps and evil pot holes.. though the front wheels are further forward than they use to be (atleast 10mm - 20mm) and now it is very uneasy over bumps! Was thinking of getting aftermarket tension rods to pull them back and hopefully get rid of this bloody bump steer! Anyone have any advice?? I am only assuming that the wheel position change has caused this??
  6. Top of Strut 'bolt'

    yeah this happened to mine also... havent got around to fixing it yet, but i think i know of a beter way to get it out.. When i get around to it... i'm going to try this: Drill 2 or 3 very small holes next to each other in the centre of the stud (inside the nut) then use a flat head screw driver in this groove and a ring spanner.. should do the trick ay
  7. Well really it depends on how the engine was stored.. Being the manufacturer you would hope that that took the time and concideration to completely seal it and pack it away from moisture etc..
  8. 2.2L Stroker

    As 'SpecS15' said, it will cost you more that 7G. I've heard of the JUN 2.2 stroker costing 7G on its own.. + labour of between 2G to almost any figure... The stroker would sure give you more torque but depending on your application I'm sure you would have better options available given the cost. If massive power reliablly is what your after (over 400wrkws) then you might be better off with a cast iron block (FJ20). There are a few completely worked SR20's that have made 1000hp b4 but these are built by high budget companies such as JUN TOMIE HKS. Still I would love to have a 2.2 myself also as I suspect it would give a FATTER power curve of more USABLE power.
  9. Call for all s14/s14a member rides!

    Well mine was an S14... I guess it mostly still is just called an s14.5 now
  10. Tolulene

    Also interested!! I will have a search... Could always make up a clandstine laboratory to make it LOL. Know any bikers?
  11. Constant Misfire

    [Jay Silvia 1.8T] Arent the injector on SR's normally noisey? Check the wiring to the coil packs and the ignitor module thingo. Mine did this once after i had pulled out coil packs (and other wiring in the area), after putting it back in it occasionally did this. All it was, was the connectors didnt quite make a perfect connection, (so clean terminals and firmly reconnect). Check that first i guess..
  12. sr20 vs rb20

    And b4 you start searching make sure you have a look at the JDM S14 & S15 power figures!! (more than the s13 sr20det & RB20det). With just a quick research the RB20det really starts to show why it is a cheaper motor to buy off importers.. Mod for $$ cant beat an SR20DET.. there many other reasons why SR20DET's are concidered far better.
  13. Lightened Flywheel

    The factory flywheel is more forgiving on idle tune and auxilary air adjustment (obviously due to its greater inertia). So in 'some' cases if using a very light flywheel you may need to adust your idle and auxilery air valve as it may not be able to compensate for increaed load (air con, power steer) quick enough in its 'current' tune. VERY easy to do. I run a cusco clutch and light flywheel package and only did minimal adjustment as it was not an ultra light version. Certainly recomend them, [ajs5768] certainly does raise some valid points but for the application of these cars it generally wouldnt be a issue. Heavier flywheels, lighter clutches, and long throw gear shifs have all got one thing in common... BUILT FOR EASY USE!!!
  14. which is stronger

    Yeah block stregth wise they are essentially identical.. VCT does give noticeable low to mid power gains, but if you already have a red top your money would be better spent building your current engine. Since you want a drag car, high rpm and HP is probably more your goal.. save some money for suspension or you wont get it off the line... BTW feel free to advise me how to suddenly "have a fair bit of money to throw around"!!! VERY INTERESTED!! LOL
  15. camshaft question

    Depends entirely on what you want to do with this car and motor... A street driven car would generally go for first options 264/264 or 264/256 (eg. HKS step 1). This is because low down torque and response is very important. On the other end of the scale if you used to greatest duration and lift available you would be needing seriously strong engine with all the additional top end HP gear to make the most of the DRAG/DYNO engine. So along with all the internals etc. you would most probablly have 600hp+ turbo massive fuel system and may have a rev limit of say 8800.. but below 4000 rpm it will be a pig... 5000-6000 and above you would be really starting to move (if you can keep it on the road). Most people seem to go for the 264/264 or 264/256 as it doesnt greatly decrease low rpm performace while making conciderable gains up top. Also alowing you to retain standard lifters/springs/vavles.. saving alot of money.